If you enjoyed yourself over the festive holidays a little too much, you may find yourself dealing with the after-effects of excessive eating and drinking, all of which show up on your skin.
When the body is exposed to high levels of glucose (or sugar), collagen and elastin proteins in the skin become impaired, causing a breakdown of its springy structure. As well as skin losing its elasticity, it can also lead to increased sebum production, dehydration and a rougher, more uneven skin surface. The extensive amounts of sugar in alcohol are also problematic for skin.
“Alcohol is a diuretic and leads to dehydration of our skin and body,” says Dr. Zainab Laftah, consultant dermatologist at HCA The Shard. “It makes the blood vessels in our skin dilate and [become] leaky, causing flushing, redness and puffiness. Alcohol is also a known trigger for rosacea and psoriasis.”
It isn’t just our tendency for excess which can lead to issues; according to a YouGov survey, a quarter of UK adults felt their mental health was worse at Christmas, while more than half were worried about mental health of a loved one. During the holidays, it is inevitable that stress will creep in. “Stress increases levels of cortisol and leads to inflammation, worsening inflammatory skin conditions such as acne, rosacea, eczema and psoriasis,” says Dr. Jason Thomson, head of medical at Skin + Me.
“Cortisol can also indirectly affect the activity of oil glands and contribute to acne, [and] stress increases the skin barrier permeability leading to increased water loss and dehydrated skin,” he says. “Stress can also reduce collagen synthesis, leading to a loss of elasticity and skin thickness.” Stress can cause changes in the way we execute our skincare routines, as well. “We shouldn’t underestimate the impact stress has on our daily skincare routines, which are often thrown by the wayside,” says Dr. Ophelia Veraitch, L’Oréal Paris consultant dermatologist. “Our skin thrives on having a daily routine, and if this is interrupted for some reason – such as stress – then it can aggravate issues and cause flare-ups. At times when we are under stress, we may find ourselves skipping our usual skincare routines… which negatively impacts our skin.”
While the experts are divided on what the concept of detoxing actually means in regards to your skin – while your skin is proficient at protecting itself from external irritants via the skin barrier, it’s not medically possible to purge toxins from the body via the skin – most will agree that all seasonally sluggish skin can benefit from a rest. “There’s no good evidence backing up any form of ‘skin detox’,” says Malvina Cunningham, consultant dermatologist at Skin + Me. “It’s a balance between looking at what you use on your skin in terms of active ingredients and cosmetics with the aim to calm and hydrate your skin, plus looking at your general health and reducing known stresses on the skin, such as lack of sleep, too much alcohol, an unbalanced diet, smoking and pollution.”
Below is our guide how to master skin that could do with detox.
Try a double cleanse routine
It’s a skincare cliché for a reason. Double cleansing (the process of cleansing twice in the morning and again in the evening), is a really effective way to remove all traces of make-up, impurities and pollutants from the skin, not to mention the 30,000 – 40,000 cells that skin sheds per day. Not only can inadequate cleansing add to congestion, breakouts and dullness, but not getting all that deep-set dirt out of your pores will render much of what you apply following virtually useless – including the expensive moisturizer you got for Christmas. Balms and cleansing oils that dissolve grime and penetrate deep into the skin are good first cleanse options, while creams, gels and micellar waters make for good second cleanses.
Reconsider your routine
Skin that’s having to cope with the onslaught of a poor diet, lack of sleep and added stress needs no extra complications in the form of fussy routines, which many of us are guilty of. “Using excessive amounts of acids and actives [results] in sensitivity, irritation and compromising your skin’s barrier function. If you have sensitive, irritated skin, then stopping products and going back to a gentle and supportive skincare routine can be considered a type of ‘skin detox’, and will help you to get your skin back on track,” says Cunningham.
Begin by stripping your routine back to gentle cleanser and moisture, which won’t irritate or disrupt already damaged skin. Incorporating a brightening antioxidant such as vitamin C into your daily routine will help stimulate collagen, offer a brightening wake-up call and counteract oxidization produced by inflammatory free radicals. “Consider adding in an active to your nightly regime… Retinols and retinoids are backed up with the most scientific evidence. They have been proven to stimulate collagen synthesis, even out skin tone and reduce inflammation. The key is to start slow with a retinol, initially once to twice a week, and build up gradually to nightly use over a period of weeks,” adds Laftah.
Look after your gut
This may be easier said than done, but banishing chocolate, salty canapés and fatty foods from your daily diet is vital if you want glowing skin. “A healthy diet is important for the gut-skin axis and skin homeostasis,” says Laftah. In other words, keeping your skin healthy means keeping your gut and its delicate microbiome healthy. It’s not just food that contributes to poor gut health either. Alcohol causes an inflammatory response in the gut which may result in digestive discomfort, including abdominal pain and bloating. Alcohol also hinders the production of digestive enzymes which can make it more difficult for your body to break down, digest and absorb nutrients from your food. If it’s possible, try to avoid booze altogether. According to a recent study, red wine drinkers are more likely to have a healthy mix of bacteria in their gut than those who consume other forms of alcohol.
Hydrate
Excess sugar, alcohol and heightened stress levels impact the skin in various ways, but one issue they all add to is chronic dehydration, a condition which leaves skin looking uneven, dull and dry. You may also experience fine lines and could even be hit with itchiness and flakiness. If this is you, take a two-pronged approach to rehydration by addressing the issue inside and out. “Don’t forget to drink lots of water to keep all your organs well hydrated,” says Veraitch. “For the largest organ of our body – the skin – an increased water intake ensures skin cells are well hydrated, reducing dryness and increased skin elasticity. Drinking water also helps to get rid of toxins which can cause inflammation.”
To rebalance skin, look for hydrating products containing hyaluronic acid, which restores hydration, as well as repairs the skin barrier which can easily become damaged after too much festive excess. “Make sure you’re using a moisturizer with barrier-friendly, moisturizing ingredients to counter the dehydrating effects of alcohol, and the reduced humidity associated with the cold weather and central heating,” adds Cunningham.
Get good sleep
While it’s tempting to indulge in a good show and not enough quality sleep, neglecting a regular sleep schedule is bad news for skin. When we sleep our skin goes into regeneration mode, replacing damaged or dead cells with fresh new ones, and repairing any environmental damage. Good sleep also increases blood flow to the skin and contributes to its essential structural work, such as rebuilding vital collagen and elastin – the proteins that festive excesses damage. Skipping those precious sleep hours (at least eight, more if possible), prevents all of this vital maintenance work from occurring, and rather increases levels of inflammation, slows down healing and repair systems and aggravates conditions including acne, eczema, psoriasis and allergies. “Sleep is nature’s best medicine and the same applies when it comes to looking after our skin. Eight hours sleep is another thing to try to get regularly, if not every night, to allow your body to rest and restore itself for the next day,” says Veraitch.
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