Whether you’re between facials or have no plans to get one soon, there are some obvious considerations to keep in mind when it comes to DIY-handling of the build-up of blackheads. Blackheads are the lesser evil of an explosive or cystic breakout, but ugly, nonetheless. And their dark appearance, while completely natural, has us feeling extra dirty.
Of course, we’re not filthy, disgusting humans if we have blackheads. We’re just human. Blackheads are the result of a pore that has filled with oil and dead skin cells. Once filled, the pore dilates slightly, and the mixture oxidizes, causing it to take on that darker color that makes us feel like we have actual dirt in our pores.
Before you go crazy with your fingers and whatever popping utensils you have, proceed softly. Blackheads will come and go, so don’t attack your face until every pore has been handled. Take a careful approach and assess the situation. Here, we provide some tips on how to go about the process.
Use heat
If you have blackheads close to the surface, pause before trying to pop them all. Popping blackheads on cold skin or skin that hasn’t been prepped can lead to redness and inflammation, and may even aggravate the problem. Begin with a hot compress such as a warm washcloth, or do an at-home steam. This will help loosen anything that is close to the surface and relax its grip for easier removal.
Mechanically exfoliate
We don’t recommend anything super abrasive, so don’t go sand-blasting your face in search of the smoother baby skin underneath. Instead, apply a gentle scrub, or just stick with a cloth with a bit of cleanser while you’re washing your face. If you’re planning to steam first, wash your face, then steam, then go back for another cleanse with the cloth in circular motions. This will free up any of those pesky blackheads that are closer to the surface and rinse them away. You might even try dry brushing your face.
Chemically exfoliate
If blackheads are the regular like they are for many of us, then chances are some are a tad more stubborn and an easy cleanse won’t solve the problem. This is where salicylic acid comes in handy. It’s a natural beta hydroxy acid that is anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, anti-fungal, and great at clearing away at the actual problem – dead skin and excess oil. It’s not a new chemical to be wary of; it’s been used for gentle peels for over 2,000 years. If blackheads are a common problem, put this ingredient into rotation.
Try a retinoid
Retinoids are a way to deliver retinoic acid to our skin, whether through OTC percentages or higher prescription concentrations. They have been a cornerstone in acne treatment for years, and for good reason. However, even if we aren’t struggling with inflamed acne and just existing with the annoyance of blackheads, retinoids can come to the rescue. They speed up cell turnover and regeneration, somewhat like a chemical exfoliant but different. Retinoic acid is excellent for texture and can break down the stubborn, gunky consistency that makes blackheads so tough to start with.
Moisturize with a good face oil
When our skin is dry, our sebum glands kick into high gear to compensate, which causes, of course, oily skin. This extra oil can clog our pores, especially after mixing with dead skin and dirt from the day. Stay moisturized and hydrated to avoid overproduction, and top off your daily moisturizer with an oil to seal it all in. Products that contain jojoba are ideal for blackhead-prone skin because it most resembles our natural sebum, so it melts into skin easily instead of sitting on top and adding to the issue. It can also help remove those harder-packed blackheads for quicker removal with the prior methods mentioned above.
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